Saturday, August 20, 2011

Mt. Kilimanjaro!

We returned from our amazing trip safely. Moss and I travelled to Moshi to meet Adam (Moss’s brother) and then to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro! After the 6 day climb we went to Zanzibar for a week of rest and relaxation.

This was a much needed vacation, and it was so much fun to have Adam in town. He was our first family member to come visit from the states. Moss and I had a blast showing him around and giving him a glimpse of what our life is like in TZ. However, he did see the rather safi side in that throughout the trip we stayed in relatively nice hotels with hot running water and electricity. Next time Adam will have to come down to Mtwara to get a better look at life as a Peace Corps Volunteer.

Adam arrived in Moshi the day prior to our climb at one in the morning. We spent the day walking around Moshi, enjoying the new city, and getting prepared for our adventure. We went to the tour office to rent the gear we did not have, but thanks to our parents, who sent a ton of warm clothes and hiking gear, we did not need to rent much. Moss and I rented hiking poles. I also needed hiking boots and Moss needed a small backpack. That evening we had a few drinks on the rooftop of our hotel, while looking out at the magnificently massive mountain in the distance.

The following day we got picked up by the tour company and met the rest of the hikers in our group. We initially thought it would only be us three hiking the mountain together, but we were pleasantly surprised that two young med students from the UK, Amy and Ranjit, joined our group. They both had great attitudes and were fun people to get to know.

A glimpse of our hiking experience:

Day 1: Machame Gate to Machame Camp (6,232 ft - 9,840 ft) ~8 miles


We arrive at Macheme gate and fill out paperwork and wait for our first day of hiking to begin. We wait for our luggage to be weighed and all the porters to be sorted out. It turns out we have ten porters, one guide, one assistant guide, one cook, and even a waiter... talk about safi hiking. We only have to carry one small pack with the items that we want for the day i.e. water, clif bars, extra warm clothes, and toilet paper. We hike for five hours on a well developed trail through a tropical rainforest. Once we arrive at camp our tents are already set up and shortly after we are served tea/coffee/hot chocolate and snacks, while the cooks continue preparing our gourmet feast of us delicious soup, potatoes, and salmon for dinner. (This is first time I have had salmon in a year!)



Day 2: On to Shira Camp (9,840 ft – 12,792 ft) ~6miles


It is surprisingly warm on day two, and most of us hike in shorts. We hike on narrow rocky ridges, which is a sharp contrast compared to the first day in the rainforest. We reach Shira camp in the afternoon, rest, have tea, and then have the choice to continue on for about an hour to visit the Shira camp ranger station in order to acclimatize a little. On the way to the station, we check out the Shira Cave, which was used by porters for sleeping and cooking back in the day. On the way to the station there is a clear view of Mount Meru and the western peaks of Kilimanjaro.



Day 3: On to Barranco Camp (12,792 ft – 12,956 ft) Highest Point was 15,120 ft ~7.5miles


It is a cold, foggy day in the clouds, but it’s amazing to see the clouds above and below you as you hike. On day three the landscape is what Adam calls ‘moonscape.’ There is no vegetation, just rocks and dust. We hike up to the Lava tower, have lunch, and attempt to get used to the altitude.

We then proceed to descend about 3,000 ft to our campsite. I have to admit, today was the first day I really struggle. It was unbearably cold up at the lava tower and I did not have enough clothes on, I thought my fingers might fall off, and then the climb down to camp was harder than I expected. Going down the mountain certainly proves to be harder than going up. Despite the cold and the light rain, I try to enjoy the views and look forward to reaching camp and drinking really hot, hot coco.


Day 4: On to Barrafu Camp (12,956 ft – 15,088 ft) ~6 miles

We start by hiking straight up the Barranco wall. From a distance this looks rather intimidating, but in reality it’s not too difficult at all. We take it slow and make our way up, while looking back at our campsite and taking pictures of the waterfalls. On top of the wall, we take a little break and have a photo shoot. We were attempting to jump in the clouds...

The rest of the day is rainy and foggy. We hike down a huge cliff into Karanga valley, cross a small creek, and then climb up a steep trail on the other side. We reach Karanga camp and are served a hot lunch (normally we carry a pre-packed lunch of chicken, a boiled egg, a jelly or honey sandwich, fruit, cookies, and juice), however, today I guess they were trying to feed us even more so we had enough energy to make it to the top in the early morning. We finish eating lunch around 1:30 and still have another 3 hours to hike in the foggy rain.

This small stretch seems to take forever, because our guide insists that we walk pole, pole...slowly! It is soo slow that it simply feels unnatural and it’s rather annoying. I decide to use my ipod for the first time on the trip and put on really slow music, so that I won’t be bothered by the cold crawl in the rain to our camp.

We reach our camp later than we had hoped, have dinner, and then go to bed around 9pm. We have exactly 2.5 hours to sleep until it’s time to climb to the summit! I’m definitely feeling a little nervous and very cold at this point, but overall health-wise I am fine. I have no trouble with the altitude. A few people in our group have headaches and/or stomach issues, but all and all we are doing well.

Day 5: The Summit! (15,088 ft – 19,340 ft) ~2.7 miles up & (19,340 ft -11,152 ft) ~8.5miles down= ~11.2 miles

We wake up around 11:30pm to get ready for our biggest day yet. Our assistant guide came to each of our tents to wake us and give coffee/tea and biscuits to get us energized. Three hours prior to this, I had gone to bed basically wearing all the clothes that I planned to wear for the hike. This includes 3 pairs of long underwear bottoms, a pair of cotton sweat pants, and I also put on a pair of windbreaker pants in the morning. On my top half, I wear 2 capaline long underwear tops, 1 capaline zip-down shirt, 1 lightweight zip-down jacket, and I put on my 2 layer ski coat, and my windbreaker rain jacket before we start hiking. I look like one big puff-ball! In total that’s 5 layers on bottom and 7 layers on top. I also wear 3 pairs of gloves, 3 pairs of socks, 2 hats, a fleece neckee, and fleece headband to cover my ears. I’m set for the adventure and determined not to get too cold.

We are all ready to go around 12:15am, and turn on our headlamps and start walking in a single file line up the mountain. It is a dark night, no moonlight whatsoever, but the stars are absolutely beautiful (we see so many shooting stars- it is amazing!). One foot in front of the other...we walk very slowly, so slowly that my feet start to get cold. I continuously hit them together between every step to stay warm- this trick actually works.

After 6 hours of hiking, we reach Stella Point just in time for the sunrise. Unfortunately all our water is frozen, but we take a nice break to enjoy the scenery, take a few pictures, and have a snack before we continue for another 40 minutes to the summit.




All five of us make it to Uhuru peak. It is very exciting and emotional. Moss and I look at each other and agree, we could just cry. We don’t, but you sure feel a sense of accomplishment and then you are so exhausted that your body doesn’t really know what to think. We enjoy the beauty at the top for about 30 to 40 minutes and then head back down the mountain.


Going down is much harder than going up! There are slippery little rocks and after a while my knees do not want to function anymore. It only takes us about 2.5 hours to make it back down to Barrafu camp. We all take a little nap, eat lunch, pack up our bags and continue hiking for another 3.5 hours to Mweka hut. I am totally wiped out by the time we get there. I’m kind of worried that my legs will not be able to work, and we still have one more day of hiking left...

Day 6: All the way down the Mweka Gate (11,152 ft – 6,396 ft) ~6.5 miles

After breakfast on the last day, we all say bye to the porters, guides, cooks, and thank them for all their help. They sing songs for us and thank us for the tips they receive and for joining them on the journey. The entire day we are hiking through the rainforest again. Adam and Moss take a ton of great pictures.


We all made it whoo-hoo! It was definitely a challenge both physically and mentally, but we did it! Yaa! And we had a lot of fun! I didn’t mention it above, but we really did have a good time together... we sang songs, made jokes, enjoyed the views, talked about almost every topic imaginable, and had an all around great experience together. After the climb we returned to Moshi, took long hot showers (since we had not had one in a week), and then had a celebratory night on the town. The following day we returned to Dar (on a 9 hour bus ride-ugh) and then we were off to Zanzibar for another adventure. All and all, the journey was amazing! One I will never forget.